Haute Couture Paris SS 2017, Antonio Grimaldi
Love is an obsession. It examines the aspiration to be admired and to please, to always reach the heights of others expectations. And those of our own. Love; Ideal, real or that of dreams was sung by the Greeks who worshipped Aphrodite, the goddess of beauty and pleasure who hidden out of view is condemned forever to the task of having us humans fall in love.Taking his cue from French literature Antonio Grimaldi explores sensuality and passion, emotion and the psyche and uses the canvas of fashion to paint a secular goddess, mixing the Hellenic sacred and profane. For his Spring/Summer 2017 couture collection, to be presented in the Salon Imperial of the Westin Paris Vendôme, Antonio Grimaldi brings to the catwalk a sophisticated concept; “Fashion for Fashion”, highlighting both the intrinsic beauty and the craftsmanship of his creations. For his return to Paris, as member of the official calendar of Haute Couture week thanks to the patronage of Riccardo Tisci, Creative Director at Givenchy, the designer artfully creates a thorough scene, complete and full of meaning including the embroidered heart logo, the symbol of the Maison. As suggested in the exhibition of Maurizio Cattelan, “Not Afraid of Love”, we must not be afraid to love, rather, we must use the weapon of beauty translated into fashion to conquer the dream. Our contemporary fighters are those that walk the Parisian catwalk, Amazons, warriors that are not afraid to stand the test of time or face the reasons to love. Drawing inspiration from Greco-Roman architecture and the obsession of research, the geometric modelings and constructions of the couturier are reflected in the couture Jumpsuit with its effects of veiled transparency, volume and seams in metal. As is the artistic philosophy of Francesco Vezzoli, known for re-interpreting celebrated works of the past, giving new context with the use of contemporary eyes, Antonio Grimaldi with his Spring/Summer collection explains his manic attention toward the aesthetic evolution of new forms that come from his treasury of tailoring know how and stylistic background. Asymmetrical cuts and bodices, dresses in embroidered, draped and pleated micro fishnet with studded culottes. The designer plays on the dialectics of tops and pants, sewn with 3D metal piercings. Alternating between fitted and oversize. Dresses that take form of breastplates and armours thanks to the play of metallic and crystal embroidery expressed in the architectural texture of lamé, platinum and silver. Chiffon, metallic georgette, triple silk crêpe, jacquard and fil coupé tell the story on the catwalk through a palette of colours from absolute white combined with metal set to fire with tones that begin at pink and end in red. Makeup is married with hair styling that is reminiscent of the Amazons helmets with use of braids and punk details. Brass knuckles as wedding rings and powder pink velvet sandals complete the outfits.
Mood: Not Afraid of Love
Lenght: the long is the great protagonist, especially for the evening
Volumes: everything has a comfy and soft shapes; evening dresses are enchanced by more wide volumes with spectacular maxi volants arounf the neck
Colors: pearl grey, pink powder, black, red, matt pink, cream, pale yellow